Experiencing Italy At Home and Abroad

Thursday, January 27, 2011

A New Year, A New Blog

It's a launch!  After several delays due to life just happening, "On the Boot: The Italian Experience" is up and running. I hope you will follow me in my quest of finding authentic Italian experiences here in the US as 2011 will be a year of domestic, not international, travel.  Of course I will continue to write about experiences in Italy as well. 


Please feel free to comment, chime-in or suggest content!  I would also welcome guest posts by other bloggers if anyone feels inclined. 

Happy New Year!

Leslie 

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Sardines In A Can

Returning back to the US is always a very long plane ride. Thank goodness for the endless stream of movies that they were showing to help pass the time away. This is my least favorite part of the transatlantic flight because not only does to signify a return to the “real world” but also because it such a long flight to be crammed in like a sardine!!!

Brent had decided to purchase two small bottle of Limoncello liqueur for friends in the duty-free shop at the Venice airport.  Unfortunately, he is "tagged" by security once we reached Atlanta for not checking it through security once we reach the airport.  Once you get your bags in Atlanta, they are put through yet another screening upon arrival.  Brent failed to note this and the Limoncello, was, unfortunately, in his carry-on bag.  Because of this he had to go back to "square one" and check his "liquid" while we patiently waited another 20 minutes.  Never a dull moment in Atlanta!  The rest of our drive home proved to be uneventful, which was more than welcome by us at this point.

Venice airport view from plane



Saturday, June 12, 2010

All The Lovely Crowds - Venice Overnight

We had previously been advised by Nico that there might be “rush hour” traffic around the Florence area since people still work and there is still school on Saturday, so we decide to leave at 9:30. Our calculation is that we should reach our hotel in Mestre, a town located just outside of Venice, by 1:30 or so in the afternoon. After check-in we plan to take the ten minute (if that) train ride into Venice.

But I am getting ahead of myself. We say our good-byes to Nico and take a one last stroll around the property. It has been such a lovely week at Sant' Antonio and we hope to come back again to stay sometime in the future.

The driving is fine until we hit north of Florence and then there are various traffic delays and problems all along the way.  We end up having a quick lunch at one of the numerous Autogrills  (a restaurant, fuel & retail complex) that are located through-out the Autostrada (toll highway in Italy).  The food is so unremarkable that I can't really remember what we had to eat!

Our hotel in Venice is actually located just outside of historic Venice in an area called Mestre , a borough of Venice. There is a direct train service from here and the total travel time is about ten minutes (if that). Mestre is also a useful location if you don't want to spend a ton of money on a hotel room directly in the center of Venice. 

By the time we get to the Hotel Bologna , it is 3:30 in the afternoon and very hot outside. The four of us manage to get checked in and decide to take the train into the center of Venice in about an hour.  Our time is very limited and, even though I have been to Venice once before, everyone else has not.

Our train ride into the station is a quick and easy. At first everyone is thrilled that they are actually seeing Venice for the first time.  Then we encounter horrendous crowds which get worse as we get to St. Marks, the principal square of piazza of Venice.  It is here that the ancient and very much photographed basilica is located in addition to other equally historic structures. 

All the lovely people- impossibly crowded during June
No one wants to navigate the Vaporetto system (water bus) so we walk.  Our attempts to make our through the crowds is stressful and everyone is very warm and tired.  On top of this, someone tries to pick-pocket Brent as we watch a huge cruise ship leave the harbor.  Luckily he does not have his wallet in his back pocket but this experience only serves to heighten his dislike of this city.

We slowly make our way back to the train station stopping in various shops along the way; purchasing some lovely Murano glass  jewelry for gifts. While shopping , I also find various places to eat but no one is happy with the menus, the prices, or the aggressive staff members standing near the entrance of their trattoria's trying to lure in tourists like us. Basically, it's our own fault for not having planned this short leg of the trip better as I could have gotten several restaurant recommendations from friends that live in Italy. Two hours later we are on our way back to the hotel where everyone but me has an unsatisfying meal... The food is great- it's just all Venetian seafood and I am the only one who wants to have seafood for dinner. 

Murano glass necklaces
 When we arrive back to our room there is a very unpleasant odor emanating from within. Basically, it smells like a sewer backed up in our room. I immediately take the elevator to the lobby and ask the front desk staff if we can be moved. The staff is more than gracious about this however, the front desk clerk casually tells me this is a problem that some of their rooms have when it the weather gets hot.....  Our new room is right across the hall and  the three of us spend a couple of hours determining if each of our suitcases will meet the 50 pound weight limit for tomorrow's airline check-in before going to sleep. 

Gondola in Venice Canal

Friday, June 11, 2010

Last Day in Tuscany: Fantasia di Mare

Can it really be our last day in Toscana? The original plan was to go to Volterra; however, a small but amicable mutiny erupted as no one wanted to venture further than Montepulciano. Since we had not done a lot in Montepulciano previously during this trip, we elected to walk throughout the town and check out some of the “Twilight” movie-related locations at the top of the town. We climbed to the top of the City Hall to a rooftop viewing area and then went by the music academy and listened to the haunting strains of chamber and symphony music which sounded better nowhere on earth than in the streets of a Tuscan hill town.


  We "bumped" into some of our fellow guests that we had met at the dinner at Sant' Antonio.  All were enjoying their last day in Toscana close to "home" and buying last minute souvenirs. 

Out last lunch in Montepulciano was at the reasonably priced  Trattoria di Cagnano. We were lucky enough to snag an outside table overlooking the main Corso. My sister and I usually made a habit to split an antipasti. Today we decided to order something called the Fantasia di Mare, totally forgetting what the translation meant and assuming it was another assortment of mouth watering crostini.  Wrong!  This enormous seafood extravaganza made its way to our table.  It was so large that all the diners in on the patio turned around to watch as it made its progression to our table!!! At this point Carla and Riley had gone to use the restroom .  Brent burst out laughing when it was placed in front of me, because my sister and I had also ordered a primi.  My sister could not believe it when she came back to the table. By the way, Fantasia di Mare, loosely translated means  "fantasy of seafood".  Nothing to do with Crostini at all. 

This is just the antipasti!  More food coming!

After our lunch (which I could not finish) we went back to Sant' Antonio to begin the process of packing.  Never a fun thing to do when you don't really want to leave the location you are vacationing in.

For our last dinner- all of us but Riley decide to go over to neighboring Pienza once again for a quick bite.  Riley decided she wanted to stay "home" and eat what we had accumulated in the fridge.  Honestly, I think she just wanted some alone time away from the adults.

Strolling around Pienza we decided upon a place small place and had each had a wonderful Crespelle ; a wonderful crepe filled with cheese and vegetables and shared crostini with white beans . After dinner it was back to packing for our departure to Venice in the morning.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Pienza, Monticchiello

Our morning hill town adventure began in Pienza today. We had been in Pienza earlier in the week, but very briefly. As mentioned previously it is a foodie paradise and we pick up some tasty provisions for dinner and breakfast during our remaining time in Toscana. We bought several varieties of pecorino cheese and wandered in and out of the shops, admiring the surrounding vistas.


For lunch, we returned to one of our favorite places in the tiny village of Monticchiello called Osteria La Porta . We were privileged to discover it the first year it opened, almost ten years ago. It is run by a woman named Daria who is also a wine sommelier and besides having an outdoor restaurant with a wonderful view; her cuisine is some of the finest we have encountered in Italia! We have always been made to feel very welcome here and today was no different. We lingered over several courses along with wine and dessert and just soak up the sun and ambiance of the terrace overlooking what else but the Val D’Orcia! 

Terrace of La Porta



La Porta vista overlooking the Val di' Orcia
 Later, Nico gave me a tour of new apartments he will be renting in Montepulciano. There are three, with one still being constructed. Two of the apartments are in the same building; one has two bedrooms a kitchen and living room. Apartments have a computer with wireless access, washing machine, and very modern kitchens complete with dishwashers. The other apartment in the building is unfinished but Nico took me through it anyway. It will be a one bedroom with a panoramic terrace and looks to be very lovely. The third apartment, Le Rughe, is the largest; a four bedroom, four bathroom located in a stand-alone townhouse in another part of town.  This would be ideal for larger groups, plus it has a really first-rate gourmet kitchen.   

Kitchen of "Le Rughe" apartment
                                    
Tonight Brent and I have had dinner for two at Ristorante Le Logge del Vignola  in Montepulciano, a restaurant that Nico earlier recommended. Nico has tried to call to make reservations but they do not seem to picking up their phone so we took our chances and went when it opened.

We were happy to be escorted to a very nice table for two my an open french door with a view on an ancient building across from us.  The menu is not the standard Tuscan fare. Brent decided to have the tasting menu consisting of cold roasted loin of pig with “Peconzola” cheese ice-cream, Crispy “Cannoli” stuffed with braised wild-boar on a cream of potatoes and a chestnut mousse for dessert.

I decided to go a la carte and order “Semifreddo” of crayfish on a bed of white bean salad, Breast of pigeon and “foie-gras” on a bed of polenta with almonds and Vin Santo. Dessert is a chocolate sampling. I have to say that my pigeon is not as good as the one I had in Assisi and this will forever be my standard.

After dinner we  strolled around the streets of this lovely hill town.  Actually, I was having a pleasant stroll,  however, Brent was less than gracious about my slower-than-usual pace; the direct result of my wearing heels. This would be the only time I attempted to wear them while walking around in Italy.  It really wasn't worth the endless griping that I was subjected to from my husband.

*Photo courtesy of Nico Pannevis. Used by permission.